Study Arabic abroad with AmeriSpan

By Cameron R., Guest Blogger learning Arabic in Morocco

I have come.  I have seen.  I have not yet conquered.  I am now getting into my second week here in Morocco, and it is growing on me.  I arrived in Rabat with a comparative eye.  I had, over a year ago, tasted the Levantine region in the Middle East.  Therefore, I, just by feelings, attachment, previous experience, and my mind's pattern recognition, had been comparing what was going on in Morocco to Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon.  I do not mean conflict.  I mean cultural interactions, vibes and pulses and activities, language, and food. 

Initially, I was not at all happy with Morocco, just a feeling of not living up to great expectations.  I did not believe it had as much history as other Arabic countries.  I did not see anything too different among the people that piqued my interest.  I did not recognize any original Moroccan food besides the famous "cous cous."  However, after a week, Morocco is growing on me.  I am discovering the nuances and secrets. Tajeen, a delicious, common food among Moroccans, consists of slow-cooked vegetables, often with a chicken or beef, cooked in a sweet or savory flavor.  Yet, you have to look in the right places.  In some places, such as Agdal, or spelled "akdal" in Arabic transliteration, the prices for food will be higher than in taqaddam.  Be weary of where you are.  Of course, it depends on your budget.  If you want to live frugally, then utilize the bus system, split taxis with two other people (three people maximum in local cabs), and calculate exchange rates.  However, in general, al-Maghreb's cost of living is low. 

I am beginning to see a prettier picture of Morocco now.  I like the people more and more.  From my experience in Morocco, the people are friendlier, haggle less, and do not care all that much about foreigners.  However, I have heard different.  I heard horror stories about computers being stolen, marriages between American girls and Moroccan men, or sickness from the water.  Then again, who knows how true these statements are, but it is important to take them with a grain of salt.  Yes, there   is a hint of truth, but with a bit of common sense and wits about yourself, you should get along just fine.  For example, do not carry a purse on your side, let alone a computer or a camera.  Do not carry around more than 150 dirham, unless you know you are going to buy something more expensive.  In other words, plan.  Lastly, when you go shopping, make sure you take a Moroccan friend with you because if you do not have one, all of a sudden the price you will have to pay for toilet paper will have inflated by 100 percent.

Learn more about AmeriSpan's Rabat Arabic school

See all of Cameron R.'s blogs

By Cameron R., Guest Blogger studying at AmeriSpan's Rabat Arabic school

After just finishing my second week in Rabat, I feel like I am understanding the lay of the land a bit better.  I know how to use the phone cards and payphones, where to buy good products, what people to avoid, and what to eat (more or less).  Instead of feeling overwhelmed, I feel more at rest.  I had the amazing opportunity to travel to the great Sahara desert this weekend as a supplement to the program; I had to pay extra.  Despite the fact that the price of the trip was 1500 dirham, it was well worth it. 

The trip had plenty of stops and opportunities to see different places on the way to the desert.  In other words, I did not just stick my head in the sand the whole time.  The trip consisted of three sections, which spanned the entire weekend.  The first day began after Friday's lunch.  We got off to a late start, but then again, there was a group of high school students numbering about 25, which required a larger bus and slowed the process down.  I believe this trip was successful in many ways, but also lacked a few important points as well.  Right off the bat, I knew, due to the nebulous itinerary, that there were going to be some spots in the trip.  I am almost sure they did not prepare for the number of students participating in the trip.  I believe the total was somewhere upwards of 50. 

Nevertheless, we traveled on the road for about six hours, including two breaks, before arriving to our destination for the night- a four star hotel called Hotel Taddart.  It had curb appeal, and the inside was intricate, welcoming, and well-lit.  We were met with music and dancing from a traditional group of the area, Atlas, and enjoyed hot mint tea; it was a spectacle.  I am not sure if this was customary, but the foreigners were encouraged to participate and make fools of themselves.  Also, it was a pretty good time consumer while we all waited for our rooms and explored the hotel.  After obtaining a key to the room, which I shared with a native Spanish guy whose mother is Moroccan and father Spanish, I went to eat dinner, which was a three course Moroccan soup, cous cous, and fruit and sweets.  After dinner, the owner of the hotel gave a few informative comments about traditions of coffee and hospitality in the Gulf, his home region, and served us all free coffee thereafter. 

After getting a solid 8 hours of sleep, I rose at 7 a.m., to prepare for an 8 a.m. blast-off, which ended up being about 8:45.  We were all eager to get to the Sahara, but there were a few stops in between.  We stopped at a fossil factory, which excavates fossils from the ground, cleans them, and shapes them into various items for sale, including fountains, mortar and pestles, and necklaces.  We also stopped at a Mausoleum, a marketplace (to buy turbans and jalaba, or head-wraps and long traditional garb), a qasr, and a restaurant (where we had madfoun, or berber pizza).  After making a few stops, we transitioned into 4×4 vehicles.  Luckily, I joined an amicable group and a bold driver.  We drove towards the desert on jeeps, which is a different experience than pick-up trucks, which I had experienced in Jordan, but it was pleasant to enjoy air conditioning.  We had one stop before the suspenseful camel rides, which was actually in an area that was Sudanese inhabited, however, now, was Moroccan inhabited.  We were served dates, almonds, and hot clove tea, however the main event was a cultural dance and musical performance using instruments that made a mellow clap sound.  They were shaped like a gourd, but were metallic and oval, almost like two elongated ovals overlapping with a half-sphere pounded into the middle of each oval.  It was a cultural spectacle.  All the students participated and danced; it was quite fun. 

Afterwards, we finally began the final descent towards the camels.  We loaded up with water and hopped on camel caravans and in no time we were trotting along uncomfortably.  Although I was not at ease after the first fifteen minutes on my camel, I found myself at awe with the Sahara.  Everything was picturesque.  I did not chat all that much with the person in front of me or behind me because I was constantly looking around, left, right, up.  I was amazed, beyond the fact that they have been doing this for years most likely, that the guides knew exactly where to go.  Sand dunes shift and tracks are lost.  One guide once said that he traveled for seven days in the desert.  Unbelievable.  We made it to base camp during the night, where we enjoyed a nice three course meal of fresh vegetables, chicken tajeen, and honeydew melon.  My caravan and I situated outside of base camp to sleep right underneath the stars.  Whether that was permitted or not, I will never know.  I trekked to the top of the nearest high sand dune in the area immediately.  After arriving at the summit, I sat and drank.  I drank it all in.  A panoramic view of the land for miles, with the moon illuminating the dunes like a light bulb in a crawlspace.  I was enthralled.  I made my way back down to my sleeping situation, which was very simple.  I donned long clothing and my kofyyah from Jordan, which I wrapped around my face to block sand blasts during the night. 

After sleeping very little, I woke up at five a.m. to catch the sunrise and beat the heat.  We made it back to the original location in about two hours and had breakfast and clean-up time.  After a jeep ride through the desert and giving farewell to our driver, Hameed Yacouby, we arrived at our buses.  This time, returning, I took the smaller bus, and I was lucky enough to sit next to a native Moroccan, which enabled me to increase my darejah vocabulary.  It seemed to take awhile to return to Rabat, even stopping in Irfan, a beautiful town that looked much like Lebanon. 

I arrived at my home at 10 p.m. and felt completely spent, which was a necessary sacrifice for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  I do think the school should consider a few amendments to the schedule, but trips are constantly needing to be improved.  I heard that this particular trip the restaurants offered vegetarian options, which is a very nice.  The Spanish say, vale la pena, which essentially means one should accept the downsides for the sake of the experience, which is true.  I believe this trip is a must-do if you are in Morocco, just make sure you always have water and are always well nourished nutritionally.  The trip was educational, awe-inspiring, and unforgettable.

Learn more about AmeriSpan's Rabat Arabic school

See all of Cameron R.'s blogs

By Cameron R., Guest Blogger studying at AmeriSpan's Rabat Arabic school

Salaam 3laykom.  My name is Cameron and I am taking part in the AmeriSpan language program in Rabat, Morocco for the month of July.  I am staying with a host family for the benefit of immersing myself in the culture and maximum exposure to the darejah, or dialect in Rabat.  In addition to Morocco's location right near where I had been traveling, Granada, Spain, I could continue my studies of Arabic while being abroad without much preparation, which is not necessarily a good things to do always, but it is certainly convenient for some of us.

The first three days have been hectic, stressful, and tiring, however, it was nothing I did not expect.  I have traveled and gone abroad alone in the Levant, which made Western Africa a new experience, but at the same time, familiar.  I had previously been in Tangier, a port city.  I traveled south from Spain and I wondered, how is this culture going to be the same as, different from, or related to Spain's.  In any case, I was going to see what the culture really was like.  Getting to Rabat was fairly easy by train, and comfortable as well.  A four-hour train ride from Tangier Station to Rabat Ville was 145 dirham, or about 20 dollars US, for first class.  It was a French company ONCF, which was also strongly recommended by AmeriSpan, which is the reason I took it.  I stuggled with getting to my homestay, however the taxi driver was extremely helpful, and we found a way to communicate despite a language barrier.  I studied Jordanian Colloquial, however, it is very difficult to understand any of the accent in Al Maghreb.  Nonetheless, I found my home, which was in the old city, near Bab al-Had, right smack dab in the middle of a souq. 

Getting to know the lay of the land was difficult, but after three days, you get a grip quickly because you need to.  A small tip: running expedites that process.  In transitioning into meeting the family, it is important to remember a few things: 1, go with the flow, especially on the first day, 2, make an attempt to interact with people, even if it means making a fool of yourself or struggling, 3, help out in some way, make sure you demonstrate to your host family that your are indeed grateful for them taking you in, despite the impersonal monetary exchange, and 4, eat everything and do not be squeamish.  I followed a basic set of rules that I created in the past, all of which create interaction and deference. 

After living a few days with my host family, slowly the social networks were revealed to me.  For example, when I was picked up from the side of the zanqa, or small sidestreet, by my host mom, following her were two women, one woman wearing hijaab, and one short, white, older woman.  I assumed that the woman with hijaab was my host mom's mother, and the white woman was going to be living with me.  In addition, I did not even know who my official host mother was going to be until after the first night.  It turns out that the woman with hijaab with another host mother, not my host mom's mother, and the white woman is staying with her.  And yes, time passes slowly at first, and facts are revealed to you slowly, but with routine, it all speeds up.  Another interesting, and perhaps compelling fact that I am not even quite that sure about, is the whereabouts of the husband.  My host mother is 31 and with two children, however, the father is not present.  Is he working?  Is he gone?  Are they divorced?  I hesitate to ask that question, however, it is definitely an abberation that I have found to be different from the Levant.  The  language is clearly a mixture of French, Moroccan Arabic, and Berber, with traces of Spanish influence here and there that become more prominent in the North for obvious reasons.  This makes learning the language difficult, but understanding this does give me more confidence in learning the darejah.  In any case, in learning a language you have to be aware of the attainability of goals in order to remind yourself that you can do it.  Sometimes this is crucial.   

Learn more about AmeriSpan's Rabat Arabic school

See all of Cameron R.'s blogs

By Niki, AmeriSpan Study Abroad Consultant

Ramadan, the 9^th month of the Muslim calendar, is celebrated by roughly 98% of Moroccans.  Every Muslim is expected to fast, which means abstaining from food, drink and some other activities during the daylight hours. Ramadan dates change every year since the Islamic calendar is based on the lunar cycle. This fasting, known as “sawm,” makes traveling and/or studying abroad in Morocco during August to September a bit difficult for non-Muslims visiting the Arab nation. However, after visiting I believe the pros certainly outweigh the cons. 

Upon arrival to Casablanca’s Mohammed V International airport, after a 7 or so hour flight from JFK, I was hungry and thirsty, but because it was 9 AM during Ramadan, I felt too uncomfortable to even attempt to drink out of my water bottle or eat the snack bar in my bag. Travel sites advised to keep public consumption to a minimum during Ramadan to avoid scornful stares.

My friend, an American citizen with family in Rabat, Morocco’s capital, told me to eat it when we got into their car. With her uncle driving, I still felt like it would be disrespectful, but he assured me it was OK. “You are not Muslim, you are a guest here, please have some water,” he said.

I noticed pretty quickly how desolate the streets were and that nearly all the shops and stores were closed. This is typical during Ramadan. Everyone essentially stays inside during the day.  Those that have to work seem sluggish and tired, having not eaten since before sunrise. Of course, the first week is said to be the toughest, and as the weeks go on, those celebrating say they get used to the feeling. Businesses and government offices close early, and even some tourist sites shut down earlier than expected.

 
This was the sun setting at the Hassan Tower Mausoleum.

On the side of the Hassan Tower is the mausoleum where King Mohamed V lies. It is in the same place where the late Mohamed V, returning from exile, gathered thousands of Moroccans to thank God for giving independence to his country. Normally guards remain on duty until 5 P.M. but they began leaving closer to 4 P.M.   You'll see a huge rush of activity from about 4:30pm and on as people flood to buy last minute items to break the fast; grocery stores become packed.

Sweets and pastries are very popular during Ramadan. It was on a trip to a local pastry shop that it dawned on me how similar this feeling was to being in the States during the Christmas holiday season.  After breaking fast with a Moroccan family, you will surely enjoy their famous Moroccan tea with some sort of sweet treat. Everyone also wildly shops the last week of Ramadan for presents for family, as they exchange gifts at the end of the holiday, another element comparable to the Christmas season.

Chebekia – My Favorite Traditional Moroccan Pastry During Ramadan.
  Moroccan family shopping at the “souk” in Rabat (open market.)

 I must say, AmeriSpan’s partner school in Rabat is fantastic. Great atmosphere, excellent teachers and they organize many activities and excursions. During Ramadan, the schedule changes, but they still accommodate students with traditional things to do to experience the holiday.

Buses and trains run according to schedule. Half way through a bus ride to Marrakech from Rabat (about a 4-hour ride) we pulled over on the highway. I curiously peeked out of the window to find the bus driver praying on the side of the road. Muslims pray 5 times daily, more attentively during Ramadan.

 
Sun setting over the Marrakech Train Station.

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t extremely hungry and thirsty at certain parts of the trip. I searched for a shop to buy water before getting on one very long train ride from Agadir to Rabat, and there were none in sight. It was certainly a time for reflection on my part, as I felt what the rest of the country was probably feeling in the hot summer’s heat.  

Many tourists will notice that tempers flare during Ramadan. I saw this more than once. It’s common to share taxis with other riders in Morocco, and when a woman thought my taxi driver was refusing her a ride, he shouted harsh obscenities to her, ones that made my Moroccan friend blush and become startled. I asked her what happened and her response was, “Everyone’s hungry and the men can’t smoke. This makes a lot of people cranky during Ramadan.”

If you like to drink alcohol, you better stick to your tourist driven cities. Some bars and clubs may remain open, but not all, even in beach towns like Agadir. In a city that welcomes European tourists and boasts an active nightlife, only 2 bars and nightclubs could be found open during Ramadan. Many close for the entire month.  This doesn’t mean that the fun has to stop. In fact, it felt like every evening was a party on the streets. After breaking fast and relaxing with family, locals come out to stroll and enjoy the night air.

  Enjoying snails at the Jamaa el Fna in Marrkech. This place is always alive in the evenings, year-round.

One particular special day I experienced was on the 27^th days of Ramadan. Its significance in Islam lies in the fact that the Qur’an was revealed from the Lord Allah, to His Messenger and servant Prophet Mohammed (Peace be Upon Him). On the 27^th day of Ramadan in cities like Rabat, Sale and Fez, there is a tradition where children dress up in fancy dresses and tiaras with their henna, hair and makeup done, and get professional photos taken in the streets.  This night the children are allowed to come out and play until late, throwing frisbees and running around the parks.

While eating at a street side café in Marrakech just after sunset, I noticed a homeless woman looking at our food. The restaurant’s owner welcomed her to have a seat and poured her a bowl of Harira (the traditional soup eaten during Ramadan.) Muslims are expected to give alms and charity (Zakat) to the poor since after all, this is the meaning of Ramadan. By feeling the hunger pains throughout the day, one feels sympathy for those who do not have food, and feels gratitude and openness to be able to share with those less fortunate.

Every day, when the sun sets, a bell tolls throughout the towns indicating that it’s time to break the fast. It was almost an indescribable feeling that came over me at this moment each day. Knowing that the entire country was eating together at this moment was extremely peaceful; it creates an overwhelming sense of togetherness as a community and a country, an almost serene feeling as if millions of families were blissful at this exact moment. It was like a months worth of our U.S. Thanksgiving dinners, where every day is a holiday and time to be thankful for  your blessings. 

Overall, I learned that Ramadan is more than just not eating and drinking. It’s about self-sacrifice and refocusing attention on God. It’s about gratitude for the health and good fortunes one has for the remainder of the year. It seems to keep people humble and appreciative. I would advise any AmeriSpan student, Muslim or otherwise, to visit Morocco during Ramadan. At least plan part of your trip around this important holiday. Since the purpose of immersion programs is to experience the life of the locals firsthand, what better time to see a country than during one of their most important and fascinating times of the year. 

"Thank you and goodbye!"