Around Cusco

By Tina Lin – Guest blogger traveling in Peru.
It was a pain to get up in the morning today. I did not have a good sleep last night because of very bad stomach problems. I ate too much at the Sanctuary Hotel at Machu Pichu for lunch. I still pulled myself together to go on our trip to Sacsayhuaman. I would not miss the opportunity to see these amazing Incan buildings. Of about 15 of us in SALUD, only 8 people showed up for the trip at 9am. I guess the whole weekend of strenuous hikes and traveling was a big toll on everyone else as well.
The 8 of us took the bus with our guide, Eduardo, to go to the entrance of the first ruin site we were to visit. At every site, Eduardo told information about possible uses and history of each site. It was nice that the bus took us to every site even though they are within walk-able distance. Today was the last day for our Boleto Turistico. I was happy that we are to visit the four sites included on the ticket. I am planning to visit Pikillacta on another day due to the lack of time.
First, we stopped at Tambomachay. It was a bath for the Inkas. There are fountains of water that flows down from a spring on the top of the mountain all-year round. It has 4 windows which could have been shelves to put clothes. There are 2 guard posts for soldiers to watch for anyone approaching. Locals believe that this water has restorative properties. It can cleanse the spirit, allow one to stay young and have fertility. I wonder what is more effective, this fountain of youth or Botox.
Secondly, we stopped by Pukapukara. Its name stands for red fortress. The rocks used to build this fortress are red, small stones. It allows for easy reconstruction. This site served two purposes. One is to control how many people could enter the city of Cusco since it connects Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Lamay. Its second purpose was to protect the Inka King at Tambomachay taking his restorative shower. There are 3 levels at Pukapukara. First level is the living quarter for soldiers. Second level is for depository of food. Third level is a watch tower.
Thirdly, we stopped by Q'Enko. I was very impressed with Q'Enko by its natural cave formations and stone carvings. Q'Enko stands for zigzag. It served as both an astronomical observation and religious ceremonial site. There are 2 tables inside the cave for ceremony. The first one was used to prepare the llama; the second one was used to dry the blood of the llama. This sacrificial ceremony of the llama took place only at the precise moment the moonlight strike the first step of the 3 ladders by second ceremonial table. This three steps symbol could also be seen in other sites as well as the Cusquenean cross. Outside the top of this ruin, you can see a basin and 2 veins that courses down the stone. One vein would lead to the right and the other to the left. During a sacrifice, llama blood was poured into the basin. If it flowed to the right vein, it told a good sign for the future. But if it flowed to the left, it foreshadowed bad signs. Near the basin you can also make out shapes of sacred animals such as Puma and condor.
Lastly, we visited Sacsayhuaman. It was originally named Sacsayuma in Quechua but the Spanish could not pronounce the word. It means head with many colored lines. It made sense because it is located at the head of the Puma (the city of Cusco is in the shape of a Puma). And coursing close by Sacsayhuaman are two rivers (lines on Puma's head). I was very impressed with the gigantic rocks used as columns in building the fortress of Sacsayhuaman. Sacsay was not only a fortress. It was a city where many people lived in. There are patios for dance and performance, depositories for water and food, altars for ceremonies, intricate caves that connect to other ruins and a natural playground for kids.
I had the privilege to slide down the slide formed on the rocks across from the fortress by rain. I have to say it is one of the most exciting slides I have ever been to. When the Spaniards arrived, they destroyed much of the site using bombs to explode some of the rocks. They tried to find silver within the stones but had no success. Later, they also used stones from Sacsayhuaman to build up to 15 churches in Cusco. Spaniards were not the only ones that damaged Sacsayhuaman. Locals would drive up here and take some rocks to build their own houses for many years until the government prohibited the practice in 1998.
This morning had been a very worthwhile visit to the ruins. I wish I did not have classes in the afternoon. My legs needed a break.